MORE PLEASE - A WINTRY BUFFET
Feta and Dill Potatoes, Red Pepper Chickpeas and Tomato Soup in memory of my Granny.
In the spirit of big old buffet energy, I wanted this More Please episode to offer three more side dishes that are easy and excellent in equal measure. I’m thrilled to be sharing you a recipe for Feta and Dill Potatoes, soft and fudgy from being baked in stock, spiked with salty feta and dill. I’ve also leant on a couple of old faithfuls - jarred pulses and jarred peppers, to make a creamy, rich, super simple and accidentally vegan Red Pepper Chickpeas.
The plan was for there to be a third side, but then last weekend my beloved Granny died. It wasn’t unexpected, and yet that doesn’t really matter when you lose someone you love. It rocks you no matter what. My Granny, Patricia MacKean, was an absolute powerhouse and a truly wonderful woman. A matriarch of 5 kids, 11 grandchildren and 5 great grand children, she created, nurtured and cherished a family who adored her infinitely. So today, in her memory, I would like to start by sharing the last thing I cooked for her, Tomato Soup.
TOMATO SOUP, FOR GRANNY
In Granny’s final weeks she was being diligently and lovingly cared for in her home in Northern Ireland by a few of my wonderful aunts and cousins. Those of us who lived in England all flew over to spend some time with her. Granny wasn’t up to eating much and flavours weren’t quite the same, so mealtimes were not that fun. I did what I normally do when I am with people I love, and when I am trying to cope with something - I immediately took over the cooking for the weekend.
My Granny has always adored tomatoes, something I inherited from her. She drank tomato juice like water and for years and years would eat tomatoes on toast every single day for breakfast. I had opened a few cans of tomatoes for a big batch of Amatriciana for my family. I knew Granny wasn’t up for pasta or really anything, but I thought I would give tomato soup a go. I kept it very simple, combining some fresh tomatoes that needed using with some tinned ones, with plenty of butter and cream like a good Irish gal. I blended it so it would be smooth, seasoned it generously and hoped for the best. Granny, who had been struggling to eat more than a couple of mouthfuls at this point, ate the most she had in days. I think it probably had more to do with the buoyant visitors giving her a boost of energy. Nevertheless I was so, so pleased to have been able to help in some way. And to show my love for her, through a tiny bowl of soup.
So this one is for you Granny. I love you and miss you x
Serves 2
45g good Irish butter
2 cloves of garlic, sliced
700g fresh, ripe plum tomatoes, finely chopped
1x 400g tin of cherry tomatoes
200ml water
salt and pepper
a pinch of caster sugar
2 tbsps double cream, plus extra to serve
plenty of salt and black pepper
Heat the butter in a saucepan and then add the garlic. Sweat gently for a minute or so, then add the chopped tomatoes. Let them simmer and soften for 10 minutes in the butter, until they have thickened and reduced slightly. Add in the tinned tomatoes, a generous pinch of salt, pepper and a dash of sugar, and simmer gently for 20 minutes. Use the back of the spoon to burst the cherry tomatoes as they cook. The soup is ready when acidity from the tinned tomatoes tastes much more muted and soft - it will taste like buttery, tomatoey comfort. Blend the soup with a stick blender or in a food processor until smooth. Strain through a sieve to get rid of any seeds and skins. Stir in the double cream and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Serve with buttered bread and another swirl of cream.
MAKE AHEAD -
The soup will keep for 5 days in the fridge, or 1 year in the freezer.
FETA AND DILL POTATOES
Not all potato dishes have to be crispy.
This dish, inspired by Greek potato recipes that I have tried over the years, is a brilliant and scrumptious side that is very hands off. The potatoes are tossed in dried herbs and baked in chicken stock until burnished yet fudgy, and then tossed with feta and thrown back in the oven to brown. Salty, slightly creamy and fragrant from mountains of dill, these potatoes are a refreshing change from a roastie or a dauphinoise and work wonderfully all year round.
