MORE PLEASE - SICILIA BELLA
Everything we did, ate and saw in Northern Sicily, Pennoni alla "Catonnata" ie. pasta in tuna + aubergine sauce, and Lemon Granita
Hello everyone, I hope June is treating you all wonderfully so far.
I am back from 12 days in Sicily feeling about as refreshed and inspired as I ever have been after a holiday. This was mine and my husbands last trip abroad just us two before we have our baby and it was utterly magical. To be honest, we kind of winged it (by our standards), both in terms of location and pregnancy. We booked in January when we had just found out I was expecting, and I had no idea really how I would feel going away approaching my 3rd trimester. We also did barely any research - I knew there were areas I wanted to go, but on a very superficial level. We booked our accommodation after I had basically pointed my finger at the map and said “here” and then we thought nothing of it for 5 months. In the lead up to trips abroad, particularly Italy, I will typically delve into researching local restaurants and book us some tables, but on this occasion I just simply didn’t have time. It was actually lovely to be free from that shackle of “every meal must change my life”. As a couple we can sometimes let that dominate our itinerary a bit, but this time we just leaned into spontaneity. And truly in Sicily you are never far away from a great plate of food.
That said, there were a couple of things I would do differently if I went again. I don’t really believe in giving out a holiday template because everyone is different, with different needs and different expectations. Furthermore, I would hate to give the idea of a “perfect” itinerary that actually could have been improved. So I will run you through what we did, where we went and the best things we ate as well as what I would change for next time, because let me be clear, we are DESPERATE to go back.
On top of this I am also sharing a recipe for one of the best pastas we ate out there. On the menu it was described as “Salsa Bianca” ie. white sauce, however it wasn’t white and to be honest, it wasn’t really a sauce. This is a condiment more than anything that slickly coats your pasta with all the luscious salty flavours of Sicily. Tuna, anchovies, capers, fried aubergines, a small amount of tomato and onion - it’s heaven. My husband cleverly re-named it “Catonnata” ie. a caponata with tuna, and it has stuck. Eating it for my lunch today was *almost* as good as when we ate it sat by the sea, pleasantly hungry and salty after a morning swimming.
After consuming my bodyweight in granita I am also reposting this beautiful recipe from the archive - Lemon Granita with Crème Fraiche Whip. I really don’t understand how granita culture hasn’t made it’s way anywhere else, it’s such a perfect hot day treat, especially if you’re pregnant. Lemon granita was the stalwart for me - the one I turned to the most often when paralysed by decision fatigue, and this recipe is absolutely to die for. We did eat many other memorable flavours including ricotta and caper, prickly pear, pistachio and coffee, so stay tuned for another adaptation coming later this month.
12 DAYS IN NORTHERN SICILY
Firstly I want to say I think we accidentally-on-purpose went at the best time of year.